NEW ROUTES:
The following routes have been installed since the publication of Boise Climbs in September, 2003. If you have any new route information please send it to sandy@boiseclimbs.com
40lbs of pressure 5.9+ (B.C. - pg. 44) Located at The Short Cliffs, immediately left of Unknown Leon. Start by ascending the obvious short hand crack to the left of Unknown Leon. Continue up Lost Arrow to the Unknow Leon anchors. The line has been done using gear only (very thin and marginal). Most will opt for clipping bolts. Submitted by: Michael May- May 2010
Detox 5.11a (B.C. - pg. 44) Located at The Short Cliffs, immediately right of The Pink Panther. A thin crack leads to a face (with one bolt) and then anchors (just standard hangers). The face could be easier or harder depending on how you interpret the boundaries of the face. Submitted by: Adam Chitwood- Spring, 2006
Tijuana T 5.10 (B.C. - pg. 44) Located at The Short Cliffs, immediately right of Detox. This enjoyable prominent crack ends at anchors (just standard hangers) that are not visible from the ground. Submitted by: Adam Chitwood- Spring, 2006
Rainbow Warrior Direct 5.12b/c (B.C. - pg. 54) Located at The Mid Cliffs. This direct variation of Rainbow Warrior skips the step left to the arête for a more challenging finish up the face. FA: Michael Stoger- March, 2004
A Mean Chunk of Candy Ass 5.12 (B.C. - pg. 54) Located at The Mid Cliffs. This line splits off of Mean Chunk of Candy. Follow the undercling feature left to a big hold and then back right on nice pockets to the top. The bolts are on line and easy to clip. A direct version of this route is in the works. FA: Michael Stoger- March 2004
Your Girlfriend 5.10 (B.C. - pg. 64) This route is the first crack to the left of Number Eight Left at The Tall Cliffs. It is a gear line that sports a single bolt near the top. Ascend the crack, passing the bolt en route, to anchors over the top. Variation: From the bolt, climb the face for a 5.11 finale. FA: Adam Chitwood, Chris Holmes- Sept, 2003
Grandpa's Route 5.10d (B.C. - pg. 64) This new bolted route is located at The Tall Cliffs, to the right of Thanks for the Mammaries. The intended line goes direct and avoids the detached column. FA: Adam Chitwood, Chris Holmes- Sept, 2003
The Wren 5.10b/c (B.C. - pg. 82) Located at Face Canyon, just left of Mourning Star. 7 bolts to chains. FA: Matt Fritz, Dusty Perkins- Sept 30, 2003
Vertical Gardening 5.9+ (B.C. - pg. 86) Located at Face Canyon, this line is the thin crack just left of Buttface. Climb through the bush and merge with Buttface near the top. Stay off the detached column to make the climb more fun. Small gear only. Submitted by: Adam Chitwood- Feb, 2004
Vertical Smile 5.9 (B.C. - pg. 86) Located at Face Canyon, this line is the offwidth crack immediately right of Dog Face. Be aware that as you climb higher, the crack widens eventually making pro unavailable. This can be remedied by reaching left and clipping the upper bolts of Dog Face. For the best finish, join Dog Face at its last bolt and and end at its anchors. Hopefully the wedged raptor remains are gone by the time you climb it.
Bushwhacking Cracker 5.10+ (B.C. - pg. 86) Located at Face Canyon, about ten feet to the right of Max V. Start behind the bush and ascend the thin crack to anchors. Submitted by: Adam Chitwood- Feb, 2004
Hong Kong Fui 5.11b (B.C. - pg. 90) Located just right of Married Man at Scary Canyon. Dihedral/crack, with with one bolt near the top, to anchors. Lots of stemming leads to a nice finger crack and then on to a big ledge. From the ledge, a few face moves lead to the anchors. FA: Adam Chitwood- Winter 2006/2007
Blue Monday 5.11+ or 5.12a (B.C. - pg. 90) Located at Scary Canyon, between Flight 1713 and Mind Killer. Start on the blank looking roof (piton) and climb to a small roof just below the main roof. This section takes small stoppers and one #4 and #2 TCU. A difficult move past the small roof leads to a traverse left in the main roof section (like Odyssey). Climb over the roof next to Flight 1713 and join it at the last 2 bolts to the top. This long and demanding pitch is protected pretty well. The climbing is very fun and sustained. Some of the gear needs to be placed from strenuous positions. 2 pitons were left on the route. FA: Michael Stoger, Sean Wolff- Feb 9, 2004
Crash Test 5.12c (B.C. - pg. 90) Located at Scary Canyon between Blue Monday and Mind Killer. Bolts to anchors. This line begins with a difficult bouldery sequence off of a boulder. It then follows a thin seam and directly into the large roof of Bird Shit Man. Variation: Starting from the ground rather than the boulder increases the difficulty to 5.12+. FA: Michael Stoger, Sean Wolff- March 1, 2004
The Odyssey 5.13 (B.C. - pg. 90) Located in Scary Canyon. This route starts by ascending Mind Killer to its 5th bolt. Clip a very long runner to this bolt and traverse the big roof to the left. Follow the roof traverse (good pro with mid size cams) until you reach the bolt on Flight 1713. Continue up and left into The Sting. Finish on The Sting or Sting Variation. This pitch is one of the most demanding at the cliffs. Bring lots of long runners to eliminate rope drag. Variation: It is also possible to finish on Flight 1713 or on Beef Curtain. This decreases the difficulty to 5.12. FA: Michael Stoger- Oct, 2003
Boise Gunfighter 5.11d (B.C. - pg. 90) Located in Scary Canyon. 8 bolts to chains. This fun route takes the steepest line through the broken right-most roof and finishes at the old "project" anchors. Stay close to the bolt-line to avoid less stable rock on the periphery. Also, beware of the giant detached block that you will find yourself standing on! It is recommend that the belayer wear a helmet and keep a safe distance to the side. FA: Brad Heller, Matt Fischer- Sept, 2005
Monkey Juice 5.13 (B.C. - pg. 98) Located at The Far Side, this route is basically a variation of Steel Monkey. Start just left of Drunken Sailor in a crack (use cams). Climb the short crack up to a ledge and clip the first of 2 new bolts. From here the fun starts and an impossible looking section is overcome by a sideways jump using 2 small crimpers to a sidepull. The footwork here consists solely of heel hooking. The line then joins the top of Steel Monkey for more fun. FA: Michael Stoger- April 5, 2004
You are Terminated 5.12d/5.13a (B.C.- pg.102) This new Nixon Head route is the longest climb at the Black Cliffs. The line ascends Watergate (12c or 12d/13a depending on travel) and joins Resignation via 4 new bolts. A 60-meter rope is needed--tie a knot at the end because you will use every inch. FA: Michael Stoger- Oct, 2003
318I 5.12c/d (B.C.- pg.104) This route starts just to the right of The Seven Moai at Easter Island. 5 bolts protect a large bulge and an overhanging arête. After the lower 3 bolts, the line crosses The Seven Moai enroute to the Kon-Tiki quick-clips. See the topo below. FA: Michael Stoger- May 2004
318I & R.C. Crack Linkup 5.13a/b (B.C.- pg.104) This Easter Island route's name is self explanatory. Start up 318I but finish on R.C. Crack. 5 bolts and TCU's. See the topo below. FA: Michael Stoger- June 2004
Variation to 318I 5.12c (B.C.- pg.104) 7 bolts (and small TCU's) to the Mortality anchors. After the third bolt of 318I, traverse right passing a bolt enroute to the upper half of Mortality. See the topo below. FA: Michael Stoger- June 2004
Mortality 5.11c (Adam's Route on the topo below) (B.C.- pg.104) Located at Easter Island. Ascend the obvious crack/right-facing corner over the bulge (awkward and weird!). Continue up the crack and onto the obvious face with 3 bolts to Metolius rap hangers. The crack takes small nuts to mid-size TCU's. Below the initial bulge there is some suspect rock including a frightening detached block that is impossible to avoid. Belayer beware! See the topo below. FA: Adam Chitwood- June 2004
Natural Selection 5.11c (B.C.- pg.104) Located at Easter Island. 5 bolts (and small to mid-size TCU's and nuts) to the Mortality anchors. Grovel up the left-facing corner to a bolt at the bulge. Pull up and over the bulge on delicate balancy moves. Continue past another bolt before merging with Mortality (3 more bolts). Expect thin and tricky gear placements below the 1st bolt. A fixed pin would be a nice addition. See the topo below. FA: Michael Stoger- June 2004
Natural Mortality 5.10b (B.C.- pg.104) This hybrid version of Natural Selection and Mortality follows the obvious weakness through the bulge. Scamper up Natural Selection to the bulge. Traverse left to Mortality on the horizontal crack. Pull the bulge and continue up Mortality.
Sea Monster 5.13b (B.C.- pg.104) Located at Easter Island. 9 bolts to the Mortality anchors. Climb up and over the large bulge (6 bolts) and on to the upper portion of Mortality (3 more bolts). See the topo below. FA: Michael Stoger- June 2004
One Week's Wages 5.10c (B.C.- pg.104) Located at Easter Island. This prominent arching crack is surprisingly fun and protects well with small to mid-size TCU's and nuts. Midway up the route, on the ramp, there are two possible ways to finish. You can merge with Mortality (3 bolts) or continue up the obvious weakness to a face with 2 bolts. The latter is currently a bit dirtier, has a questionable detached block and ends at anchors that offer nothing more than standard hangers (anyone want to do an upgrade?). See the topo below. FA: Michael Stoger- June 2004
Scatter Brain 5.12d/5.13a (B.C.- pg.104) Located at Easter Island. 4 bolts up a steep face to anchors on the ledge. Bring fresh slings to replace the old slings at the anchors. See the topo below. FA: Michael Stoger- June 2004
Beginning to an End 5.9 (B.C.- pg.104) Located at Easter Island, to the right of Scatter Brain. A somewhat grungy crack to anchors (just standard hangers). You can climb left around the huge detached block (How solid is it?) or take the original direct line which goes at solid 5.10. FA: Adam Chitwood- summer 2004
Sexual Underground 5.11c (B.C.- pg.104) Located at Easter Island, to the right of the previous route. 6 bolts to chains. This is an outstanding climb with fun and interesting moves on excellent rock. Some people place a TCU before the 1st bolt. FA: Adam Chitwood- summer 2004
Mama's Beefcake 5.11c/d (B.C.- pg.104) Located at Easter Island, to the right of the previous route. Crack to chains. This is another outstanding line with very sustained and technical movement. The pro is a bit thin so hang a toprope if your lead skills aren't sharp! FA: Adam Chitwood- summer 2004
King of Thieves 5.11b (B.C.- pg.104) Located at Easter Island, to the right of the previous route. 7 bolts lead up to and over a huge ceiling to chains above. The route's highlight is definitely the flurry of thuggish and airy moves at the ceiling. However, the blocky nature of this ceiling is a bit disconcerting. FA: Adam Chitwood- summer 2004
Last Man Falling 5.11d (B.C.- pg.104) Located at Easter Island, to the right of the previous route. 6 bolts to the King of Thieves anchors. Climb King of Thieves to its 3rd bolt and then veer right toward the giant rectangular alcove. Follow 3 bolts up and over the alcove's bulge. From here, go right of the huge ceiling above, enroute to the King of Thieves anchors. This last stretch is a bit dirty and placing a piece of gear is probably a good idea. FA: Michael Stoger- summer 2004
Mind Games 5.11 (B.C.- pg.108) Located at the Dark Side to the left of Physical Graffiti. It's the most direct line to the large roof. Jam up to the thin crack that goes out the center of the roof. Pull the roof to a two bolt anchor. FA: Adam Chitwood- Spring 2004.
God Damn 5.12/5.13 (B.C.- pg.108) This Dark Side climb is a variation of the omnipotent God. Ascend Physical Graffiti to the roof and then right-- via a new bolt-- into God. Climb the remainder of God to a new direct finish, via another new bolt. This direct finish also offers a much better finish to God. FA: Michael Stoger- July 2004
Swimming With A Jet Pack 10a (B.C.- pg.108) This crack climb is located at the Dark Side to the right of Groveler. It starts behind a detached column. Using the column makes the bottom of the climb a bit easier but doesn't change the grade. FA: Adam Chitwood- Fall 2009
Trigger Happy Jackie 5.10b (B.C.- pg.108) This gear climb is located at the Dark Side immediately to the right of Swimming With A Jet Pack (above). FA: Adam Chitwood- Winter 2006/2007
Forty Six 5.10c tr This toprope route is located at the Dark Side between Trigger Happy Jackie (above) and Southern Bell (below). Submitted by: Adam Chitwood- Winter 2006/2007
Southern Bell 5.11a (B.C.- pg.108) This sport climb is located at the Dark Side to the right of Trigger Happy Jackie (above). FA: Adam Chitwood- Winter 2006/2007
Puff the Magic Dragon 5.11a (B.C.- pg.110) Located just right of Irreconcilable Differences at Green acres. Crack to anchors. FA: Adam Chitwood- Winter 2006/2007
The Riddler 5.11+ (B.C.- pg.110) Located at Green acres, just right of the previous climb. Crack to anchors. FA: Adam Chitwood- Winter 2006/2007
No Bolts to Blind You 5.8+ (B.C. - pg.113) Located at Rodeo Flips Wall, a good distance down river from Rodeo Flips. To find it, follow the base of the wall past the huge boulder field and the open grassy slope that follows. The route is found near the beginning of a second boulder field. Look for a large nose sticking out near the top of the wall, above a large-sized sage brush. Starting just to the right of the sage brush, work your way up a blocky corner system with thin pro. After the first 15 feet, aim for the left side of the bulge/nose where there is an offwidth crack that leads to the top. Submitted by: Nik Aksamit- Aug 2012
No Bolts Variation 5.9+ (B.C. - pg. 113) Start as for No Bolts to Blind You (see above), but finish on the thinner crack on the other side of the bulge. Submitted by: Nik Aksamit- Aug 2012
Under the Table Short Var. V5 (B.C.- pg.140) Located at The Quarry. Start as for Under the Table but finish on Heel Hook instead of continuing the traverse. This is how most people do the problem but it is distinctly easier than doing the full traverse.
Night Moves Backside Traverse V6 (B.C.- pg.137) Located at The Quarry directly to the right of Night Moves Overhang. Sit start on the left side of the boulder. Traverse the lower lip, on tiny edges and heel hooks, to an escape at about 1/3 of the way across the boulder. Pull over the top on a small crimp. Variation: Traversing the entire boulder on the lip is significantly more involved..
Red Wall Right Var. V3 (B.C.- pg.147) Located downhill from The Quarry at the Red Wall Boulder. Sit start as for Red Wall V5/6 but then cut back right to use one obvious hold on the arête (Red Wall does not use the arête at all).
Red Wall Right Arête V0 (B.C.- pg.147) Located downhill from The Quarry at the Red Wall Boulder. Ascend the right-hand arête of the boulder.
The Road Less Traveled 5.10d (B.C. - pg. 156) This route is located just right of The Long and Winding Road at Mores Mountain. Climb the crack to a narrow cylindrical face with 3 bolts. Finish at Metolius rap hangers under the ceiling. Funkadelic! Bring small to medium size cams. FA: Brian Fedigan, Sandy Epeldi, Tim Ball- Sept, 2003
Wargasm 5.11a (B.C. - pg. 159, route #19 - the "Open Project") This route is just left of Tool Boys at Mores Mountain. 10 bolts to anchors. Be prepared for thrilling crux moves on crumbling rock. During the summer of 2006, volunteers spent time cleaning this route so it is probably in better shape. The 3rd and 4th bolts were also relocated which might have changed the crux sequence a bit. A 60-meter rope is required. FA: Sandy Epeldi, Tim Ball, Brian Fedigan, Nick Ray- Oct 16, 2004
Message in a Bottle 5.8 A1 This dubious route is located on the east side of Mores Mountain at the newly dubbed granite spires, "The Beer Bottles". Approach the route via a short hike down the bicycle trail from the Shafer Butte Picnic Area trailhead. The line ascends a prominent arête and crack on the first of "The Beer Bottles" (The Darwin Stubby). 4 bolts and supplementary gear lead to unusual anchors at the summit. Expect extremely rotten rock and don't pull out on the bolts! Please replace any bolt that falls out of its hole. FA: Tim Ball, Scott DeWalt- Oct, 2003
Buffalo Soldier 12b (B.C.- pg. 161) Located at Buffalo Rock. This line links up Ride the Buffalo (aka Buffalo Crack Dir)--first 3 bolts--and Buffalo Arête--around the corner. FA: Michael Stoger- Oct 2004
Blast Off V5 (B.C.- pg. 161) Located at The Atomic Boulder, on the blunt arête to the right of the "Atomic" graffiti. Reach up to the big scoop and begin pulling. This problem has cleaned up nicely and is noticeably less difficult than when it was first established as a very gritty and slick V6. Submitted by: Jesse "SuS" Edmundson- Oct 2005
Burnt Shadow V5 (B.C.- pg. 161) Located on the backside (facing away from the road) of The Atomic Boulder. Ascend the obvious diagonal handholds to a somewhat grungy topout. Fun moves! Submitted by: Jesse "SuS" Edmundson- Oct 2005
Down Climb Mantel V2/3 (B.C.- pg. 161) Located on the up-road side of The Atomic Boulder. Mantel into the big scoop.
Top Down Dirty V2/3 (B.C.- pg. 161) Located just down slope from the The Atomic Boulder. Sit down at the obvious right-leaning diagonal. Launch for the filthy top of the boulder.
Slabs in Heat V1 (B.C.- pg. 161) Located about 80' uphill from, and facing The Atomic Boulder. Tiptoe up the right side of the delicate slab on crunchy smears and pinchy knobs.
CHANGES & CORRECTIONS:
White Wash 5.9 (B.C. - pg. 60) Located at The Populace Wall. Some bolts disappeared from this route and then promptly reappeared.
Little Nest 5.7 (B.C. - pg. 60) Located at The Populace Wall. Apparently the bolts have been removed by a personal crusader who feels compelled to force you to climb in the style he feels is appropriate for you. We all like having decisions made for us, don't we?
Happy Face 5.11b (B.C. - pg. 82) Located at Face Canyon. The top of this route broke off and fell into the canyon. It is no longer a climb.
Mourning Star 5.9 (B.C. - pg. 82) Located at Face Canyon. This old crack climb now shares anchors with a new sport route.
Men Who Pause 5.11b (B.C. - pg. 90) Located at Scary Canyon. The upper portion of this route has been reengineered. The last bolt was moved down and a new bolt was added above it.
Resignation 5.11a (B.C.- pg.102) This perpetually incomplete route at the Nixon Head has been converted into a fully bolted sport route. 11 bolts lead to chains. Watch out for some loose rock and expect a couple of reachy clips.
Kon-Tiki 5.12a/b (B.C.- pg. 104) Located at Easter Island. This route has been upgraded from a top-rope problem to a mixed-lead route with the addition of a bolt at the crux and new anchors (with extra-large quick-clips) at the top. Scamper up Hotu Matua's Line as far as the large bulge. Clip the bolt on the bulge and wrestle upward on thuggish bouldery moves. There isn't much pro above the bulge but the climbing is moderate.
Robinson Crusoe's Workout Crack 5.13a (B.C.- pg. 104) Located at Easter Island. 2 bolts have been added to the crux section of this climb. Climb up The Seven Moai until it cuts right. Continue upward past 2 bolts enroute to the Kon-Tiki anchors.
The Seven Moai 5.10b (B.C.- pg. 104) Located at Easter Island. This outstanding crack climb was published as 5.10d but has since developed a consensus rating of 5.10b. Most people finish this climb by merging with Mortality.
Chemotherapy 5.? (B.C. - pg. 135) Located at The Table Rock Quarry. Some pinhead placed pins on this route. Inevitably someone will pull them out and leave behind new holds. This will certainly diminish the challenge of the route.
Sit Down and Smoke Me V? (B.C. - pg. 142) Located at The Table Rock Quarry. Reportedly a key hold has broken off making the sit start a bit harder.
Buffalo Slab Right 5.9 (B.C.- pg. 161) Located at Buffalo Rock. The 2 bolts on this old route have been re-equipped with hangers for lead climbing.
Buffalo Crack 5.11d/5.12a (B.C.- pg. 161) Located at Buffalo Rock. 3 bolts and Metolius rap hangers have been added to this line, upgrading it from a toprope problem to a lead climb.
Ride the Buffalo (aka Buffalo Crack Dir) 12+ (B.C.- pg. 161) Located at Buffalo Rock. This route has been upgraded from a toprope problem to a lead climb by the addition of 4 bolts and anchors. The line continues straight up where Buffalo Crack cuts right. FA: Michael Stoger- Oct 2004
Buffalo Arête 11c (B.C.- pg. 161) Located at Buffalo Rock. This old route has been re-equipped for lead climbing. 3 bolts to anchors.
The Peachonator V4/5 (B.C.- pg. 173) Located at The Peach Boulder. The V6/7 rating in Boise Climbs refers to the extended version of The Peachonator which starts all the way to the right end of the face under a bulge. Most people do the shorter version from the obvious sit start which clocks in at about V4/5.
